
A classic Grade II with a star. We approached from the gondola at the Ski Centre of Aonach Mor. From here we walked around into the coire where visibility was almost zero beyond a few tens of metres.
But the ground was quite visible and the snow fresh.
It was tricky finding the climb as the ridge itself is quite high up and we had to go through some difficult terrain to get even to the start of it. The snow was soft but got harder as we ascended.
The terrain is boulder-strewn and my friend was keen to get geared up and cramponed up. However, having just come off WML training, I was happier slicing steps with my B3s and was critically watching his kicked steps (wrong angle and not appropriate for the snow etc...). Basically I wasn`t nasty about it but it was reassuring that I was finding the route kicking easier than he was and I wasn`t following his steps.
We didn`t rope up however and agreed that as we could see key decision stages ahead, we`d review and rope when we felt we should. We had both technical axes out but I found it easier to semi-scramble and to do some hooking or torquing with one and use my hand as there were some good jugs. I can imagine that in full snow conditions, it would have been a very good Grade II. However, we were able to solo this without any difficulty. A very enjoyable day.
For the descent, we went to the north east ridge and descended that (opposite direction from CMD). This was a more challenging descent given the conditions. The air was warming and the snow little more than white slush back in the glen. I was struggling with a rather nasty chest infection and cold too!
Area :
Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg
Ben Nevis is certainly the biggest and most famous winter climbing ground in Scotland, with something for everyone from the debutante to the most experienced and skilled. The almost alpine grandeur of the north face can, in a good winter, transform into a world where climbable snow-ice forms at almost every angle. It provides climbs suitable for any stage of the winter, from early season snowed-up rock climbs to late season ice wall specials. Also included here are the small number of winter climbing opportunities on the neighbouring Carn Mor Dearg.