Paul Sammons - 172104

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Trad Climbing Record

Details

Date : 07/04/2017

Grade : Severe

Grade : 4A

Style : Lead Climb

Type : Multi Pitch

Weather : Clear / Sunny

Wind : Gentle Breeze

Crag : Polney Crag (Craig a Barns)

Climb : Kestrel Crack

Flagged :

Description

Climbing with Isi. I made this harder than it needed to be. I lead, planning to finish the pitch at a ledge, and have Isi lead the second pitch. I got to the sance at the end of the first pitch but did not realise it was the belay point - so I climbed onwards. I had extended the runners as best I could, but there was a cam in the large flake that I should have extended further with a longer sling. This, coupled with the fact that I had a 35 metre pitch left me with severe rope drag. When I got close to the top I had to pull lots of slack through, hold it in my hand and climb on. This made the top part of the climb much harder than it needed to be. For me it was a tough climb mentally and physically. When I got to the top I needed a long sling, but had used it around a boulder at the earlier stance. As luck would have it 2 climbers appeared - with my lost phone in their hand. I scrounged a sling and was able to bring Isi up. I was drained and elated. This was the longest lead I have ever climbed. the climbing itself was not hard, but the sporadic gear opportunities at the second half left me climbing way above my gear. What a great day! Much thanks to Isi Oakley for a great 2 days climbing, and for her awesome knowledge. Learned loads,and also learned how little I know!

Area : Highland Outcrops: Pitlochry to Dunkeld

The Pitlochry to Dunkeld area covers the crags bordering or close to the A9 between the two villages. They are very popular climbing destinations with climbs to suit all abilities, with a very pleasant environment and sunny aspects. The trad climbs on these crags should be entered here, but the sport climbs on the mixed discipline Dunkeld and Rockdust crags should be entered in the sport climbing section of DLOG.

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