My first winter day I can log since my WML assessment as Roseberry Topping on the North York Moors during the 2018 “Beast from the East” requiring ice axe & crampons on Grade I terrain doesn’t count...
Took a bit of a wrong turn to start off. The website with the directions suggested that the ascent was back toward the Achriabhach farm from where the Glen Nevis road crosses the river and through a gate on the left following the river on the east side before striking up to the ridge.
This we did not knowing that a new path has been built which isn’t on the map. However we both realised that the contours were much steeper on the side we were on (actually the usual descent route from Stob Ban) and there were cliffs in the way. I thought we should co your round to the other side but find a good spot to cross the Allt Coire a Mhusgsin. We did. We crossed some dear fences, and found the new track.
This made for an easier ascent despite being for the most part under the snow. We found some steeper sections we could have bypassed but this was a perfect opportunity to practice some steep ground step kicking where there was little consequence of a slip.
The snow higher up was quite greasy and although bonded to the neve below, was still prone to slide off under our feet on the Ridge proper. The wind too was a problem with 60mph gusts. Two axes and crampons on in a relatively sheltered spot but the blowing and falling snow meant we had to do this fast.
The difficulties were over surprisingly soon and we arrived on the small summit plateau. The cornices seemed well bonded but still to be avoided. I paced to the spot where the “path” (buried) strikes down to the col. there is supposed to be a cairn but it was under snow if there. This steep initial descent requires a range of moves - from facing in daggering, to slicing steps with crampons, to just walking down heel plunging. The rest of the wall out followed what was probably a good path but quite high with a drop to the river below. It too was buried and it was long overdue before crampons came off. My companion being insistent and a bit nervous about taking them off.
the ascent of a significant mountain is included in the day.
•I took part in the planning and leadership.
•Navigation skills were required. And this included recognising that the guide book description we followed was referring to a newer track not shown on our maps and correcting it, through to the descent in white out off Stob Ban and negotiating the steep descent.
•Knowledge is increased and skills practised. Lots of practice plus a Grade I Ridge.
•Attention is paid to safety - very much so on the Ridge, though we didn’t feel the rope was necessary (brought it as it was officially a “climb”). More around coaching my companion to take his crampons off.
•Adverse weather and underfoot conditions may be encountered. White out, strong gusty wind and slippery sloughing snow.
•Five hours or more journey time.
•Conditions encountered should be in terrain and weather comparable to that found in the UK in true winter conditions.
•An ice axe and crampons were required.
Area :
Ben Nevis & Aonach Mor (Fort William To Loch Leven)
This area covers the mountains between Fort William, Loch Leven (to the south) and Loch Treig (to the east). The area includes Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg, The Mamores, The Aonachs and The Grey Corries. An impressive 20 Munros are split equally by Glen Nevis and the waters of Abhainn Rath. Relatively accessible from the A82, these mountains hold some classic walking and climbing routes such as The Ring of Steall in the Mamores and Point Five Gully on Ben Nevis. Includes all major peaks above 600m.
