Fabian Seymour - 143967

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Awards Completed

MLW RCI ML
Member Of

Trad Climbing Record

Details

Date : 05/05/2018

Grade : Diff

Grade : n/a

Style : Assistant Leader/Instructor

Type : Single Pitch

Weather : Clear / Sunny

Wind : Gentle Breeze

Crag : Stanage North

Climb : October Crack

Flagged :

Description

First outdoor session shadowing and assisting a MIA.
Beginners outdoor course
Mainly at Crow Chin area of Stanage.
Started with a meet and greet and learnt about his approach to finding out about people`s expectations and level.
On the walk in - discussing access (possible) issues and use of the guidebook
How to locate ourselves using the guidebook and the crag - fine tuning using smaller rock features as we get closer.
Movement and balance skills
Handholds
Lunch break
Rigged two bottom ropes - The approach is slightly different from the red Rock Climbing book and I liked it but have since discussed it with Sam Leary who uses the traditional means as it sets a marker for multiple top ropes from one rope. He used tied off clove hitches for both points of contact with his anchors (which were ruddy great boulders) rather than a figure of 8 at one end.
This means they are adjustable unlike tying in one side with a fig 8.
- When using the rope to tie around a boulder - I need to practice the bowline and triple stopper knot.
- Use a fig 9 for the actual carabina attachment for the climbing rope. Also - put in an overhand above this so that the two rope sections are together going over the cliff. It makes equalisation easier and uses only one rope protector.
I also assisted with one group of three providing movement advice, checking for tying in (and advising when they couldn`t do it) and general system management around climbing calls, buddy checks, tailing etc.
Felt the morning session dragged on a bit and it was after lunch before people even touched rock. I don't feel that getting clients standing around balancing in a sling laid out on the ground is particularly valuable. Learnt loads but perhaps not in the way expected. I found myself cornered in the car asking about what I do. In my previous industry business cards fly around like confetti but I learnt the hard way that this is absolutely not what is done in this industry and found myself accused of stealing clients which wasn't my intention in the slightest. Novice, enthusiasm and inexperience shadowing someone for the first time.
Got burnt, tried to explain, lost confidence, moved on.
Spoke to Paul Poole over email about ways to manage this situation where I get asked about what I do.
Started at 0900 finished at 1800
Total - 9 hours.

PLEASE NOTE THAT I WAS NOT CLIMBING BUT DLOG WON'T LET ME ENTER ANYTHING WITHOUT A CLIMB ENTERED

Area : Peak District Grit: Stanage Edge

Simply the finest crag on grit with well over 1000 routes of all grades and styles. The most popular of climbing areas in the UK with a huge number of classic routes. We have split the area into the same divisions as used for UKC logbooks, namely Stanage Popular, Stanage Plantation and Stanage North. Bouldering activities should be entered into the 'Outdoor Bouldering' section of DLOG. Routes on other gritstone crags, such as Burbage North, should be added to the relevant Area as noted in the Area titles.

Location

Marker
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