The southern side of Glen Coe includes some very well-known mountains and can be split into two groups; the ones you can see from the A82 and the ones you can’t. Included in the former group is Buachaille Etive Mor, Buachaille Etive Beag, the Three Sisters and the Ballachulish Horseshoe, and in the latter, three Munros between Glen Creran and Glen Etive (Sgor na h-Ulaidh, Beinn Fhionnlaidh and Beinn Sgulaird). With huge amounts of climbing and walking in summer and winter, this area is also home to a large cairn built for Queen Victoria, or so the story goes. Includes all major peaks above 600m.
Ballachulish Horseshoe variation. Aiming to complete a grade I QMD we initially planned a two day getaway in Torridon, however both weather and avalanche forecasts were not in our favour and particularly mention of snow accumulation in gully tops and crags lead us to look to Glencoe for a grand day out. Avalanche forecast for Glencoe area was moderate for aspects N-E above 800m and NE above 300m localised moderate. Weather forecast was WNW, 15-20mph snow-showers. We therefore decided to undertake a slightly modified Ballachulish Horseshoe. Simple ascent to the base of the Schoolhouse ridge, passing multiple groups. Snow was deep and soft with no ice. Initial 100m of the ridge was pleasant with simple axe placements, although the soft snow did not produce instantly positive holds. A very thin layer of ice on an exposed step at 600m caused us to don crampons for extra grip and aided us in the rest of the ascent, noticing that at 800m the snow became more consolidated and gave positive purchase when the axe was placed. There was a moment where we considered using a rope which lead us to think in these conditions we were closer to a grade II feature. Groups did use a rope (probably for training purposes) whilst others turned back. Weather seemed much clearer than expected and we were rewarded with fabulous views. On completing the Schoolhouse ridge we rewarded ourselves with a quick snack and made light work of the Westerly ridge to Sgorr Dhearg. We then followed the ridge along to the second peak, Sgorr Dhonuill, studying the beautiful cornices, ensuring we were on firm ground. On reaching the summit the visibility reduced to 30m and the forecasted snowfall began. We grasped this opportunity to practice compass, pacing and interpreting micro-features skill, to navigate through the upland plateau West of the summit picking a safe descent to Kentallen Bay. We noticed the snow was much sticker on the Western aspect of the mountain.
