Beinn Eighe - Morrison's Gully, Sail Mhor, Grade 2 buttress to Coinneach Mhor, beallach before Spidean Coire nan Clach, south to road.
SAIS - Low hazard all aspects and altitudes, windslab consolidating, hard crust
Weather - Low NW winds, then frommidday S winds 15 g20, strengthening and snow forecast from 5pm
After considering the retreating snow cover in the Torridon area, we decided on Beinn Eighe and Morrison's Gully. At 8.15 we walked in up Allt a Choire Dhuibh Mhoir and made our way around to Coire Mhic Fheacrchair. We made our way up the apron onto snow and half way up put our crampons on. We started up the gully.
After 50m we re-assessed our ascent as the snow was hard, although soft in some places. There seemed to be low avalanche risk, although there was debris from an old avalanche (which somebody had glissaded down). We decided to continue and kicked steps and made stands for rests.
We continued to the top of the gully towards the summit rocks and moved onto the ridge slightly at the right, and were rewarded with amazing views, including the Triple Buttress. We headed down the ridge towards Coinneach Mhor towards Coinneach Mhor. We reached the Grade 2 buttress just before the summit and made the decision to head up the buttress rather than work our way around the to the Grade 1 recess. The first move on the Buttress was challenging but doable and it was fine after that. We enjoyed the hard snow beyond the summit, and noted the southerly winds were stronger than the forecast.
We then headed off the peak and picked our way east and then south down the steep slopes back down to the road. The snow was softer on the south facing slopes and helpful in the descent.
Area :
Cuillin and Torridon (Liathach)
This area is on the west coast of Scotland and its most well-known mountains are probably Beinn Eighe (1010m) and Liathach (1055m). The area is bordered by Loch Maree and the A832 to the north and Glen Carron and the A890 to the south. It should not to be confused with The Cuillin which is on Skye and listed in the Western Isles region. The mountains list contains all peaks above 800m.
