
9th July: We parked at just beyond Moy, shouldered our packs and set out for Kankenjunga. Companions were Catriona (aged 8) and Duncan (11)
First up by the waterfalls. Very impressive. Then we decided to ford the burn that forms them. This was not such a good idea, and we got badly midged with our socks and boots off. Back on the track again things were going quite well, but Catriona was obviously struggling.
We came to a step stile on the track and decided to call it a day. There was a slight easterly breeze up the bank which occasionally kept the midges at bay. We had tea using the stile as a seat and table. First Pot Noodle. These were declared unpopular by all three. Then we had some (full-weight) rice and tuna, which restored the meal. I had bought some last minute ginger cake and creamy custard. There was still hot chocolate and biscuits. Not surprising the children were high as kites in the tent.
I had decided that Catriona and Duncan would share the small brown tent and I would sleep under the Bondi shelter upturned over the groundsheet. It was not a good night’s sleep, with a few midges and a mosquito, and later rain making a puddle in the roof and all sorts of drips.
10th July:By the time I woke at 9.00 (after ignoring the rain at 5.30), I was sure we would not be going up the hill. It would likely be better to the west, we could go to Mallaig.
I photographed our campsite and turned the shelter up to provide a rain shadow. By the time the children were waking the rain had stopped and sunshine was floating towards us. We had breakfast and packed up with two rucksacks, which Duncan and I took. Off we went.
The children were very keen on everything, stopping to examine slugs and plants and water courses. The second plantation had been blown about by winds, and I had forgotten how wet it was at the top end, beyond the constructed track, so it was quite a while before we emerged onto the moor and they commented that we wouldn’t have been much better camping there anyway.
I think the trog across the moor was my next low point. It was getting on towards lunchtime, the ground was uneven and wet, and light showers of rain were beginning to come across Creag Meagaidh again. We climbed a drier slope, crossed a peat hag, which the children found very impressive, and headed for the waterfalls on the Allt Ban. Duncan was very taken with this and photographed it several times while Catriona and I sheltered under the groundsheet and had some lunch. Duncan joined us for some, too.
Then on to the ridge. Once they got the hang of this, it went really well. There is a short preamble section then it steepens. The rock outcrops reminded me of stone trolls, but close-up, they were more like chaotic piles of washing up ready to collapse. We found the way up, Duncan slightly ahead, Catriona just in front of me, and I could guide them effectively from the rear as we were all close together. We had a rest half way up but it all went quite quickly, and we were reaching the top quite soon. Cloud came across us a bit, a new experience for the children. There was the occasional drizzle, but nothing to worry about.
I wondered how the four adults who were arriving at the top just after us, and the four we saw later still heading for the top, felt like being beaten to it by two children whose combined ages was only 19. We decided to head for the South top, and found plenty of fox towers (enriched and built up by habitual territorial marking with droppings). From the South top we dropped down a bit and sat in some shelter. I rang Judith on the mobile phone to let her know we had been successful.
It was quite a long way down for them, stumbles, ankle twists and knee double-joints previously not experienced. We crossed a rough couple of glacial meltwater channels and skirted Meall Bhaideanach, before coming down towards the tent. It was invisible for ages, as it was so well camouflaged.
We packed up, shouldered rucksacks and headed down. The ford was a lot easier, especially as we were slightly devil-may-care about it at the end of the expedition. We were back at the car about 6.30.
Several times during and after the children had said what fun it was, what an excellent expedition it had been, and that they would always remember it. I was quite touched by their open acknowledgement of my having shared my world with them. It was a tough one for them, though. No path to the top. An overnight stop. Doubtful weather. The descent was probably the toughest bit, and I’m delighted they coped.
We were a bit late home, after 7pm, but no-one minded.
Area :
Creag Meagaidh (Loch Lochy To Loch Laggan)
This area includes the famous Creag Meagaidh Range and surrounding peaks of at least 600m. It stretches east of the A82 between Spean Bridge and Invergarry, and north of the A86 as far east as Stob Coire Dubh. There are a large number of impressive winter climbs in Coire Ardair and endless navigation opportunities on and around the high central plateau of Creag Meagaidh itself. The mountains to the north and east of this range are under East Highlands, Monaliadth Mountains.