Stuart Lade - 116685

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Winter Climbing Record

Details

Date : 03/02/2015

Grade : V

Grade : 7

Style : Alternate Lead

Type : Mixed Climbing

Weather : Heavy snow - poor visibility

Wind : Gentle breeze

Camping Type :

Nights Camping : 0

Crag : Coire an t-Sneachda

Climb : The Genie

Flagged :

Description

Lots more snow than the forecasted showers. Hard work walking in and keeping on track. Aladdin's buttress was absolutely caked in snow when we caught a glimpse.
Alasdair took the 1st pitch (stayed on line after previous attempt took us on to Damnation) which was straightforward enough, though very powdery snow with no base made for few sketchy moves.
I led the 2nd pitch, 2 short corners to belay below the main corner pitch. Felt very hard, unhelpful powder but gear was good. Both agreed probably the crux moves of the climb.
Alasdair led the 3rd main pitch, nothing too hard (6) but sustained. Extremely poor visibiity on topping out made finding the goat track tricky enough, descended down this and walked out in the dark.
Climbed with Alasdair Buchanan.

Area : Cairngorm: Northern Corries, Hell's Lum, Creagan Coire Cha-no, Lurcher's Crag and Outliers

This Area includes some of the most accessible (and some of the hardest) winter climbs in Scotland. Coire an t-Sneachda has an excellent variety of winter climbs, many in the lower to middle grades, while Coire an Lochain hosts classics of a range of grades and some extremely demanding test-pieces. This Area also includes the very accessible Creagan Coire Cha-no, Lurcher's Crag in the northern Lairig Ghru, and the training bluffs of the Chalamain Gap. Also included here are the cliffs of the northern side of the Loch A'an basin such as Hell's Lum, Stag Rocks and Stac an Fharaidh (as they are on the same general massif as Cairngorm), while cliffs on the southern side of Loch A'an are in the Ben Macdui, Carn Etchachan and Shelter Stone Crag Area of DLOG. The range's former name is Am Monadh Ruadh (the red hills), distinguishing them from Am Monadh Liath (the grey hills) to the west of the River Spey.

Location

Marker
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