What started as a very promising day in the mountains, ended up the worst day I have ever had in the mountains#.
Started from the usual car park and headed up into the coire. We passed some older guys, who were planning the same route as us. They didnt seem to be either kitted out or dressed for the route they were going to climb, but I thought who am i to judge!
They set off up the gully 10 mins before us,as we had some scran and kitted up, but as we started we soon stated to catch them up. They were not roped up and were not wearing helmets. There was lots of ice debris coming down the gully from above som i was pleased to be wearing a helmet.
At about 3/4 of the wasy up 800 feet, myself and Dave my climbing buddy passed two of the slower members of then other group, and headed for the top. Within 5 mins, there was a shout from below us and as we turned around we saw one of the guys we had just passed tumbling down the gully. His mate was shouting BRAKE BRAKE! The guy had no chance.!
After a discussion with my three other climbing friends and ringing police, we each headed down to the bottom of the coire (two of us descending via the window) and stuart, one of my other friends down climbing.
When I got down to the coire floor again I was just in time to see the casualty being winched up by the coastguard, only just alive, barely conscious. He had fallen 900 feet, and with not wearing a helmet, he was in a pretty bad way.
I have relived this day many times in my head since then, but as of 24/02/2020 he is still in hospital fighting for his life.
Area :
Creag Meagaidh, Beinn a' Chaorainn and the Monaliath
The winter climbs of Creag Meagaidh take a while to come into condition, but when they do they provide some of the best ice and steep gully climbs in Scotland, highly prized. This area also includes the popular Beinn a' Chaorainn and the more esoteric opportunities in the Monaliath. In a rare winter ice forms on Creag Dubh Newtonmore, which is also included here.
