Early start! Got over for a good time and pretty swift walk-in given the snow underfoot. Poor visibility on approach but caught a bit of visibility just as we got to the base of the cliff. Planned on South Pipe Direct, then dropping down the Sash to do the top pitch of the Wand.
Started up South Pipe Direct, Joris took the first pitch. Plenty of good ice low down. I took the second pitch, steep snow, not a lot of pro. Joris took third pitch from meeting point with Staghorn Gully, again pretty nice ice. I got the cave pitch which was completely filled in with cruddy snow (so no cave) and surprisingly steep little section on not great ice. Took a few minutes to get on with it. Moved together to the top. Big glide cracks still at the top from previous trip up Staghorn.
Whiteout on top, struggled to locate the top of the Sash so bailed on original plan to descend to the top pitch of the Wand. Went down the window, considered a quick route on the right but still very poor visibility and a bit sore having not had the chance at the Wand.
On walk out noticed fairly large slide full depth that had ran most of the way to the path.
http://meagaidhblog.sais.gov.uk/2015/02/snake-eyes/
Climbed with Joris Volmer.
Area :
Creag Meagaidh, Beinn a' Chaorainn and the Monaliath
The winter climbs of Creag Meagaidh take a while to come into condition, but when they do they provide some of the best ice and steep gully climbs in Scotland, highly prized. This area also includes the popular Beinn a' Chaorainn and the more esoteric opportunities in the Monaliath. In a rare winter ice forms on Creag Dubh Newtonmore, which is also included here.
