Working in Downhill Racer area. Two climbers one fairly experienced (Malc) and the other (Svetta) mainly indoor climbing.
Set the scene and explained what I planned to do for the session. Intro to lead for the less experienced and a coached session on a route with the more experienced person.
With Started with an explanation of lead climbing and an opportunity to have ago at placing some gear . Explained about passive and active protection.
I got the more experienced person to lead Gamma and place as much gear as possible, he managed 7 pieces in the 11m route. While Malc was preparing to climb the route I refreshed belaying with Svetta as she had not done much lead belaying. Once Malc had lead I went to the top to check his belay before bringing Svetta up. I went through ABC & IDEAS with hime. On the way up I had asked Svetts to remove then replace the gear then remove and clip to harness. I got her to practice finding good positions to stand so she could work with both hands.
Once she got to the top I got Malc to explain about the belay.
Next I set up a top rope for Svetta to have a go with a full rack so she could feel the difference. I challenged her with placing more than 7 pieces of gear. When she got to the top I got her to set up a basic belay under my supervision.
I then top roped the route to check all the gear.
Svetta then did another simulated lead clipping all the gear and resting on some of the pieces as confidence exercise. This was enough for Svetta as she felt she had learned enough for the day.
I then set up a fixed line along side Slab Recess Direct for Malc. Unfortunately it rained so we had a short wait for the rock to dry.
As the start is the hardest part and the rock was slightly greasy I pre paced a high runner. I ascended alongside Malc as he climbed the route. It is up a shallow corner and I found it was difficult to check each piece of gear until Malc had moved higher. Malc had no problems climbing the route. At the top I coached him through IDEAS again.
Both Malc and Svetta were very thankful for the training delivered and want another session.
Reflection:
Trying to get stuff in a logical order still needs some work! Didn't do a warm up. Not a good area anyway.
Should have taken a third rope!
Need more long slings - now purchased.
Need a spare helmet.
Area :
Peak District Grit: Froggatt, Curbar and Baslow Edges
The gritstone edges north of Bamford and south of Grindleford.
