This Area includes some of the most accessible (and some of the hardest) winter climbs in Scotland. Coire an t-Sneachda has an excellent variety of winter climbs, many in the lower to middle grades, while Coire an Lochain hosts classics of a range of grades and some extremely demanding test-pieces. This Area also includes the very accessible Creagan Coire Cha-no, Lurcher's Crag in the northern Lairig Ghru, and the training bluffs of the Chalamain Gap. Also included here are the cliffs of the northern side of the Loch A'an basin such as Hell's Lum, Stag Rocks and Stac an Fharaidh (as they are on the same general massif as Cairngorm), while cliffs on the southern side of Loch A'an are in the Ben Macdui, Carn Etchachan and Shelter Stone Crag Area of DLOG. The range's former name is Am Monadh Ruadh (the red hills), distinguishing them from Am Monadh Liath (the grey hills) to the west of the River Spey.
Teaching Kirsty and Dan in parallel. Dan's first winter route but is a strong summer climber. Approached via goat track which was bullet hard. Shortroped then two pitches to top. Very serious and think I should have pitched sooner. Was short of rope at tope so should have done it in 3 pitches. Decended down from corie Domhain into Loch Avon off rope which felt serious and consequential so probs should have out the rope back on. That would have made gearing up easier as well. The ice was quite hollow low down but improved with height. Predominantly ice screws with a mix at belays. An adventure for Kirsty and a chance to push the grade. For Dan the focus was into to winter gear and movement skills. Descend down Goat Track for practice. Three lowers off bucket seat, rock and west coast stomper then shortroped which still felt consequential on hard snow. Could have done another 50m lower. Great day for my learning.
