I assisted a small team of leaders working for John Rocks (JR) instructing a group of ~10 x young climbers F&M children & young persons (CYP) approx 15 y/o. I worked with one of the JR Instructors, Stu, in particular and we had little chance for introductions beforehand but got on well in the time we did and worked well together for the rest of the group-session. After a warm up the group split in two. One group was taken bouldering. I accompanied those doing ropework. In particular, the aim of the session was to begin lead climbing. After a brief activity involving clipping, traversing a low wall on foot, the group split into two. Initially I took 2 attendees; then we swapped over & I took 3. I was asked to expand their clipping practice while the others learned to lead. I led activities i) just to practice clipping ii) Left-hand only & right-hand only iii) added a small time pressure and explained what that time-pressure was in climbing iv) changed the physical level at which they clipped & v) created a line of ring-bolts on the vertical wall, in an approximate (but variable) straight line and asked the participants to boulder with a short training rope, to clip the quick-draws; vi) repeat with one bolt way off to one side. This worked well. Shorter participants found one clip difficult to reach, when traversing on their knees. We joined back together again for top-roping / auto-belaying while one group led & I was the tail on belaying the group of 2. I was able to instill confidence in one M~15 by having him climb a 5b with a trailing "lead" rope, while on a top-rope. His clipping had not been the fastest and he lacked confidence to lead. By completing this safely and comfortably, he was able to see that this was his "theoretical leading grade"; then he was able - with some further encouragement of his confidence - to lead a 4c, understanding this was at an easier grade than one he had already completed comfortably. Stu CWDI was interested to learn of the various forms of clipping training I had done at a low level & I was interested to become involved in the roped climbing aspects. The young people were able to climb around 6a; one auto-belayed 6b; another had several attempts, arriving at the penultimate hold, but unable to complete. I found I learned a lot; there was never a time I was uncomfortable at being left to instruct the CYP, only a moments trepidation while I decided what to do. I was pleased to get on well with Stu and our instruction complemented one another really well. We had short wash-up sessions in order to catch best-practice. I had observed that CYP used either / both fingers & / or thumbs to carry the rope into the karribiner-gates. Stu had a really good method of teaching how the thumb forms an L (or reverse-L) shape orientating with the curve of the karribiner towards the gate, which assisted the CYP in how to clip - and me in how to instruct this.
Area :The Climbing Hub
The Climbing Hub, 10-13 Beckside Business Park, Beckside Rd, Bradford BD7 2BR
I assisted a small team of leaders working for John Rocks (JR) instructing a group of ~10 x young climbers F&M children & young persons (CYP) approx 15 y/o. I worked with one of the JR Instructors, Stu, in particular and we had little chance for introductions beforehand but got on well in the time we did and worked well together for the rest of the group-session. After a warm up the group split in two. One group was taken bouldering. I accompanied those doing ropework. In particular, the aim of the session was to begin lead climbing. After a brief activity involving clipping, traversing a low wall on foot, the group split into two. Initially I took 2 attendees; then we swapped over & I took 3. I was asked to expand their clipping practice while the others learned to lead. I led activities i) just to practice clipping ii) Left-hand only & right-hand only iii) added a small time pressure and explained what that time-pressure was in climbing iv) changed the physical level at which they clipped & v) created a line of ring-bolts on the vertical wall, in an approximate (but variable) straight line and asked the participants to boulder with a short training rope, to clip the quick-draws; vi) repeat with one bolt way off to one side. This worked well. Shorter participants found one clip difficult to reach, when traversing on their knees. We joined back together again for top-roping / auto-belaying while one group led & I was the tail on belaying the group of 2. I was able to instill confidence in one M~15 by having him climb a 5b with a trailing "lead" rope, while on a top-rope. His clipping had not been the fastest and he lacked confidence to lead. By completing this safely and comfortably, he was able to see that this was his "theoretical leading grade"; then he was able - with some further encouragement of his confidence - to lead a 4c, understanding this was at an easier grade than one he had already completed comfortably. Stu CWDI was interested to learn of the various forms of clipping training I had done at a low level & I was interested to become involved in the roped climbing aspects. The young people were able to climb around 6a; one auto-belayed 6b; another had several attempts, arriving at the penultimate hold, but unable to complete. I found I learned a lot; there was never a time I was uncomfortable at being left to instruct the CYP, only a moments trepidation while I decided what to do. I was pleased to get on well with Stu and our instruction complemented one another really well. We had short wash-up sessions in order to catch best-practice. I had observed that CYP used either / both fingers & / or thumbs to carry the rope into the karribiner-gates. Stu had a really good method of teaching how the thumb forms an L (or reverse-L) shape orientating with the curve of the karribiner towards the gate, which assisted the CYP in how to clip - and me in how to instruct this.
