Ben Morgan-Gray - 465795

logs 1,284
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Trad Climbing Record

Details

Date : 18/04/2023

Grade : Mod

Grade : n/a

Style : Instructor / Supervisor

Type : Top/Bottom Roping

Weather : Clear / Sunny

Wind : Strong Wind

Crag : Stanage Popular

Climb : East Chimney

Flagged :

Description

Teaching session with Adam. Adam wants to be able to safely rig top rope anchors to bring his daughters out climbing. We went through AN IDEAL. We initially looked at gear placements, how to assess placements and then how to rate gear with the idea of needing 10 from the gear rating. He then placed some gear and we shared our ratings to see how his judgement was calibrated. I then demo'd building an anchor on the ground covering 4 steps. 1. Primary gear, static attached, safety klemheist on, 2. taking the static to the point of the climbing, doing a fig 8, and attaching the rope to weight it. 3. taking the static back to the 2nd and 3rd pieces of gear, using a sling to connect and then attaching the static using a clove hitch and adjusting 4. final checks fo everything and rope protectors on. We discussed various points as they came up. Adam then built an anchor with me asking questions about decisions or choices and working through talking points. Then we looked at the guidebook, and talked about identifying a climb, before heading to the top to rig. This was a good learning point for the application of the 'theory' to 'practice' and how it forces compromises and may mean you pick a different route to rig. Adam rigged the route and we talked through each step with Adam asking questions to check everything was ok. We then moved to a different route and I highlighted the challenge (and danger) of identifying routes from above. I then got Adam to build an anchor independent of me. He asked questions as needed but mainly I wanted to observe what he could do. Finally, we talked about top vs. bottom roping. The changes to setup required and implications for group management of both approaches.

Area : Peak District Grit: Stanage Edge

Simply the finest crag on grit with well over 1000 routes of all grades and styles. The most popular of climbing areas in the UK with a huge number of classic routes. We have split the area into the same divisions as used for UKC logbooks, namely Stanage Popular, Stanage Plantation and Stanage North. Bouldering activities should be entered into the 'Outdoor Bouldering' section of DLOG. Routes on other gritstone crags, such as Burbage North, should be added to the relevant Area as noted in the Area titles.

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