Ben Morgan-Gray - 465795

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Trad Climbing Record

Details

Date : 24/06/2023

Grade : Diff

Grade : n/a

Style : Assistant Leader/Instructor

Type : Single Pitch

Weather : Clear / Sunny

Wind : Gentle Breeze

Crag : Stanage Popular

Climb : Capstone Chimney

Flagged :

Description

Day one of working with leads university rock climbing club. A wider group of consolidating instructors under the supervision of Dan McKinlay. Attendees of the day were aspirant committee members who wanted to develop their own climbing as well as being able to develop the climbing of other climbers who join their club. After an initial look at both introducing climbers to techniques for the gritatone we also looked at how they might coach newcomers and the barriers to learning. We done split into smaller groups and I took two Sasha and Cat, who was relatively new to trade climbing was starting to push grades and wanted to check that they weren't creating risk. We discussed methods for rating gear and assessing placements before putting this into context on climbs. Prior to lead belaying we did a quick refresh of belaying and lead belaying refining the techniques that they had already established. We initially looked at gear placement on a ghost rope lead climb, with an emphasis on comparing their one to five rating of gear with mine to see if there was significant differences. We talk through the different gear placements. We then moved to independent leads with me self-lining beside them to provide observation and support as needed. Some good learning points from the day firstly in terms of always testing people's stated ability, but also where there was a perception of confident confidence there was likely things that could be added. Finally was also a reminder to be sensitive at times to clients as they may be experiencing hidden pressures.

Area : Peak District Grit: Stanage Edge

Simply the finest crag on grit with well over 1000 routes of all grades and styles. The most popular of climbing areas in the UK with a huge number of classic routes. We have split the area into the same divisions as used for UKC logbooks, namely Stanage Popular, Stanage Plantation and Stanage North. Bouldering activities should be entered into the 'Outdoor Bouldering' section of DLOG. Routes on other gritstone crags, such as Burbage North, should be added to the relevant Area as noted in the Area titles.

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