Robert Mcgrady - 164217

Private coaching session with a client who contacted Up & Under Adventures for a programme to help him achieve a goal of climbing F7a outdoors.
This was session one of three and an initial assessment.
Client was a male in his mid twenties, who had considerable trad climbing experience and was climbing E2 5b multipitch and bouldering at a V5 level.
We met at the Warehouse and went through a PAR-Q form and goals and breaking them down into SMART goals. We also went through a psychology wheel chart where I ask the client to rate what he perceived to be his strengths and weaknesses.

I then asked him to warm up and I would observe some bouldering.
He did not warm up properly and when questioned stated that we never does warm ups, just boulders to warm up. So I went through a warm up with him and then got him to boulder on a variety of different walls and holds.
He has a weakness in steep ground, crimps and slopers.
We then got kitted up and I belayed him on some lead climbs on walls of varying steepness. This was to see how he climbs on longer routes and how he tackles the the various aspects of the route.
Noticed he:
- Doesn't route read past the first quickdraw, leading to wasted energy trying to figure out the route.
- Has poor clipping positions
- Relies heavily on upper body strength to carrying him through routes on steep walls.
- He holds his breathe on steeper terrain
- His footwork accuracy deteriorate on steeper terrain.
- Has poor flexibility and mobility in his hips.
Afterwards we sat down and I went through what I had observed and then we agreed on areas to focus on. I wrote up the assessment a day later and created a 12 week physical training and stretching programme for him.
Phase 1
Phase 2
Phase 3
All consisting of 4 weeks, during which progressive overload has been programmed in to create the desired physical fitness adaptations within his body. We agreed on a review at the end of each phase to see if we at reached our goals for that phases and discuss whether we needed to progress the programme or regress depending on performance.
I've uploaded the original 12 week programme before we altered it at the phase 1 review.