So went to XC today with a couple of my colleagues. We planned a long day of climbing, so got here at 1pm. Warmed up and started bouldering. Completed all v0-1 routes (pink), but took my time about it. Focusing on foot work and body position. Then did half of the v1-2 routes, again taking my time. Then I went over to the slab and spent a good 15-20 minutes climbing with no hands.
After I felt adequately warmed up, I completed a mixture of v2-5 routes which I had done before to build up my rhythm and pace. I managed to top out a v6+ slab route (blue) which was the max adjective grade of the day! It was a tricky sit start, with a quick bridge to the arete, left. To then stand on the starting hand hold and compose for the next section, which consisted of a high right foot on a slither of a pebble and long, balanced reach to the arete, right, with both hands. To end which a strong push with right foot and hands up to the final hold.
After that I topped out a v5-6 (beige) route that I hadn`t managed to complete before. Very tricky due to the hand hold positions and the quick smears necessary to get to them.
We then moved to lead climbing and after watching and talking to one of the route setters, we decided to take on the new routes at XC. The first was an easy 5+ with a few tricky moves at the start. Followed by a 6a, 6b, 6a+,6b+, 6a to finish on my favourite route at the moment, which is the 6b+ feature chimney!! All in all, some fantastic climbing, with a lot of lessons learnt.
Need to focus on my confidence with slopers, heel and toe hooks and straight arms!!! Basics! But I`m still relying too much on my strength!
