Award Description
This international award trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to guide climbing (including the coaching of lead climbing) skiing and mountaineering on rock, snow & ice, and in alpine terrain. It is administered by the BMG to the standards set by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). The Guideās carnet is an extensively used professional award.
Course convener: Jon Bracey
Trainers: Adrian Nelhams & Jon Bracey
Meeting time: 7am, 13th February Bar Licone, Cogne. We will try and meet up the night before in Chamonix if convienient for all participants.
Equipement: Please arrive on the Thursday morning having already grouped yourselves into seperate rope teams. Make sure each team has 2 x 60m dry treated ropes, sufficient ice screws (~12 per team), avalanche rescue kit (transciever, shovel, probe), usual emergency kit(first aid, shelter, comms, navigation tools)
Program Outline: Planning- history of the ice and snowpack, weather & avalanche forecasts, local knowledge, recent conditions info(online and first hand). Route choice- clients ambitions & abilities, conditions, timings, aspect & altitude. Temperature changes & solar insolation- effects of the ice and security/safety. Awareness- enviroment, changing conditions + weather, other people. Client care & safety- location of belay stances, rope management, other teams above and below you. Climbing technique and your saftey as a guide. Teaching progression on ice to clients. Descending safely. Managing risks and incidents.
*During the course you will be expected to efficiently lead on WI4 terrain.