Awarding Body

Mountain Training

Scheme

British Mountain Guide

Course

Winter Assessment

Type

Training

Award Description

This international award trains and assesses candidates in the skills required to guide climbing (including the coaching of lead climbing) skiing and mountaineering on rock, snow & ice, and in alpine terrain. It is administered by the BMG to the standards set by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). The Guide’s carnet is an extensively used professional award.

BMG WINTER ASSESSMENT

 Saturday 4th March to Friday 10th March 2023

Convenor: Graeme Ettle

Introduction

The purpose of this course is to establish that trainee guides meet the technical and professional standards required to operate in the Scottish winter environment as described in the BMG syllabus and prospectus. Throughout the week the trainees will be assessed on their technical skills, climbing ability on ice and mixed routes, mountaineering judgment and other associated mountain disciplines along with their approach to the care and well being of clients in winter conditions.

Meeting Place.

Meet at 6pm on Saturday 4^th March 2023, in the reception at Glenmore Lodge for a formal meeting where the programme for the next 2 days will be outlined.

You will require equipment for an overnight bivvy in the mountains on Sunday evening and food for Sunday & Monday including food and an evening meal for the assessing guide.

Course Programme

Sunday 5th March and Monday 6th March

General mountaineering and expedition - movement on steep ground, snow-craft, ice-craft, navigation, route finding, avalanche awareness and assessment, emergency shelters. Two days with one night spent out in snow-shelter and night navigation, please bring food (evening meal and breakfast) and cooking equipment for yourself and your assessor. The assessor will provide his own lunch and snacks.

Tuesday 7th March

Personal climbing performance - Trainees climbing in pairs leading on Grade V routes on mixed/buttress climbs with one assessor.

Wednesday 8th March

Personal climbing performance - Snow and Ice route in the Cairngorms/Ben Nevis/Creag Meaghaidh. Trainees climbing in pairs, leading on grade V routes with one assessor.

Thursday 9th March

Guiding Day - Trainees prepare and guide one client each in snow and ice craft, using belaying and rope work techniques as appropriate. This day should include the completion of a winter route at the appropriate level for your clients. One assessor will assess each trainee.

Friday 10^th March

Guiding Day - Guiding the same client on a longer route (typically Hells Lum, Carn Etchachan, Creag Meaghaidh, Ben Nevis). This will be at a standard appropriate to the clients’ ability.

Results and debrief – On Friday Evening, Trainees will be formally debriefed and the results delivered individually by the course convenor and team.

The BMG reserves the right to modify the proposed outline at any stage should circumstance and/or climbing conditions dictate.

Lectures

There will be no formal lecture requirements for trainees, however, assessors will expect trainees to deliver short presentations in the field and/or whilst on the move. Presentations will be on winter topics and should demonstrate each trainee’s knowledge and understanding. Topics may include some of the following topics: Scottish winter mountaineering history, winter weather, snowpack evaluation, avalanche terrain and risk, mountain aspect, ice-characteristics, winter protection, local traditions and styles.

Basis of Assessment

The assessment is based on an overall picture of each trainee’s performance and competence throughout the week. Individual assessors will debrief trainees after each day, which will indicate what their recommendation will be to the course convenor. However, it must be stressed that the final outcome is not decided until the final assessment meeting on Friday evening and is the decision of the course convenor in consultation with all the individual assessing guides.

There are three results: -

Pass

Deferral on individual days

Fail

Failure would result from a consistently weak performance throughout the course or a series of failures in several different topics.

Deferred candidates will be advised on how they might improve their areas of weakness and will be required to take a re-assessment at a later stage on another assessment course

Pre-Course Preparation

This is potentially a very demanding course. Please make sure that your climbing level and guiding skills are as high as possible. It is very strongly recommended that you spend as much time as possible climbing and working in the Scottish winter environment in preparation for this course.

Please note that this week might run in less than perfect conditions and you should be prepared to adapt to cope with these conditions

Internal Course Transport

Trainees should use their own transport during the week as this is a lot more flexible.

Cost

The cost of this course is £1800.00 which is to be paid by Friday 13th January 2023. Costs are based on full attendance. 

Booking

To reserve a place on this course please book and pay via the CMS.

Failure to pay on time will jeopardise your place on the course.

Accommodation and Catering

Accommodation will be based at Glenmore Lodge,

This is booked for Saturday through to Thursday. Sunday night will be spent in the mountains. 

There is no accommodation available (booked) for Friday 10^th March at Glenmore Lodge. This is likely to change, and the Convenor will inform you nearer the time.

Anyone with special dietary needs, please contact the Convenor.

Please note that it is mandatory for all trainees to stay at Glenmore Lodge.

Equipment.

All personal equipment will be the responsibility of the trainee. Condition and suitability of your personal clothing and equipment will be assessed throughout the week. Thursday and Friday will involve clients, who should be equipped appropriately, two ropes may be needed on these days.  Please note that you should bring your own avalanche transceiver.

Course Convenor contact details

Graeme Ettle

Rowanbank, Fort William Road, Newtonmore, Inverness-shire PH20 1DG

Telephone 07711 078122

If you have any queries don’t hesitate to contact me:

Signed

Graeme Ettle

Course Convenor

December 2022

BMG Office Siabod Cottage,

Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES

Tel: 01690 720386   Fax: 01690 720248

Email: guiding@bmg.org.uk

BMG WINTER ASSESSMENT , 4^th to 10^th March 2023

BOOKING FORM

NAME:

ADDRESS:   

TELEPHONE NUMBER:                                          

EMAIL:          

EMERGENCY CONTACT NAME:   

EMERGENCY CONTACT TELEPHONE NUMBER:

I enclose a cheque for £ 1800  non refundable)                                            □

or

I have made a BACS payment for £:                                                  □

Account Name: British Association of Mountain Guides

Sort Code: 82-61-00 Account Number: 10169461.

Date BACS transfer made:

Your BACS Reference:

I am arranging accident/cancellation insurance (strongly recommended).               □

SIGNATURE:                                                                         DATE:

Please make cheques payable to “British Association of Mountain Guides” and return this form with payment to Sue Doyle, BMG, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES no later than Friday 13^th January 2023.

Start

04/03/2023 18:00

End

10/03/2023 18:00

Total Days

6

Maximum Bookings

1

Bookings

1

Venue

Glenmore Lodge

Town

Aviemore

County

Inverness-shire

Postcode

PH20 1DG

Country

Scotland

Latitude

57.06309

Longitude

-4.12861

Name

British Mountain Guides

Phone

07711078122

Email