04.00 - 13.30. Bernese Alps East.
Clear sky, moderate winds, warm in sunshine but very cold wind. Keith Anderson and myself. Finsteraarhorn Hut to Finsteraarhorn (4273m) by south-east ridge - grade D with short pitches of III and a 40m step of IV+ near summit, descent via normal route (north-west ridge and southwest flank) grade PD. Small bergschrund at start to ridge, a lot of loose rock on ridge requiring great care.
06.00 - 16.30. 16km.
Clear sky, light winds. Ten GMC members and myself. Finsteraarhorn Hut to Fiesch via Fieschergletcher and paths. 'Dry' ice glacier most of the way, minor problems in route finding through badly crevassed section. One section using fixed chains not mentioned in guide. Some delay in helping another party on an awkward rock pitch.
