An unguided attempt on this peak by myself and my husband. We used a local company for logistics, transfers and tent set ups. We carried our own equipment apart from tents between the camps. There was snow at base camp the first couple of days which meant we did not move up to abc initially as it was not safe to do so.
The walk to abc was long and tough. carried approx 16 kilos, which was also tough, the height gain between camps is 1000m each time.
we walked somewhere everyday to ensure good acclimatisation. initially a peak from base camp, then a peak from abc.
the move from abc to camp 2 becomes more technical with the entire day being glacier travel, there were some huge crevasses to cross, mostly they had been marked. the route is steep for much of the way, until easing off somewhat. However rough temperature was 45 degrees, the area known as the frying pan delivered, and was a tough tough day with the suns rays reflecting off the bright white glacier.
camp 2 is on the side of the glacier, not comfortable, with tents over rocks and ice. this camp is at 5500m so we both felt the altitude after a 1000m climb up again, combined with the heat.
we headed up towards camp 3 to acclimatise before dropping back to camp 2. stopped another night before going back down the glacier to abc at 4500m.
After a days rest the plan was to head up to camp 2 again, however the weather had other ideas with heavy snow fall and avalanches on the north face of Lenin.
due to time constraints and a worsening weather forecast we sadly returned the long walk to base camp, and then home.
