This area covers Stoney Middleton, Chee Dale, the Matlock crags, Beeston and Dovedale. The easy routes that are any good are polished to a glassy sheen, but still worth doing. The hard routes are hard and any in situ gear is sporting. Recent development has centred on disused quarries like Horseshoe Quarry and Masson Lees.
Good bits interspersed with shuffly bits. One pitch from the ground to the Lyme Cryme stance via some bolts to the right of Skylight, then one to the top of Original Route.
