
Fine day with Gordon (his first winter climb other than as a paying client). Snow unconsolidated and absent in places. As first step was entirely rock we chose a start to the right, which proved to be at least II but safe due to a thread. We unroped for most of the gully but the snow quite variable, icy and thin in parts with 2 or 3 interesting steps. Roped up again at top to get over a final chockstone. Due to uncertainty of snow we chose to descend N from Bidean to col before S.C. nan lochan, then down a west slope to coire. Some small slabs so pleased with our choice.
Area :
Glen Coe, Ardgour and Loch Etive to Appin (winter)
Glen Coe gives a wealth of winter climbing opportunities of all grades and styles, something indeed for everyone. The cliffs are also, in the main, easily accessible which means they can become very popular. This area also includes the winter climbs on the mountains south of Glen Coe in Glen Etive, and on hills more southerly still but north of the A85 Oban road (notably Ben Cruachan). Also included are the hills of Appin and Ballachuilish, the dry tooling of Ballachuilish bridge, and the winter climbs in Ardgour (notably Garbh Bheinn).