
Massive day out! Not great conditions so thought we'd take a punt on somewhere that might have collected a lot of snow. Walked in across from the sugar bowl car park. Hard work with powder along the path, Charlamaine gap was tough, then post-holed down the Lairig Ghru and continued to post-hole all the way as we contoured into Coire Bhrochain.
Started up The Great Couloir, was a horrible, wallowly powdery mess (plenty of snow as predicted!) so quickly bailed on to the buttress on the left of the couloir taking some new ground? to the right of the established routes hugging the right edge of the buttress overlooking the couloir. Powder on slabs made for tenuous climbing at times but some better conditions further up.
Managed 3 pitches before running out of determination/daylight with a pretty tough section ahead so did a couple of abseils to retreat. Very long walk back to the car! Stuff we had climbed probably around IV 4/5.
Climbed with Neil Colquhoun.
Area :
Cairn Toul and Braeriach Massif (winter)
The Braeriach massif is one of the coldest and snowiest places in Scotland, often offering winter climbing when lower cliffs have been stripped. The long approaches and remote locations demand considerable judgement of weather and conditions, and the vast eastern corries are serious places to climb. The rewards are almost guaranteed solitude and excellent climbing in an area of wild beauty and expansive views. Many of the cliffs are best visited early in the season before the depth of build up, and the cornices, become too large.