Mark Demmery - 140002

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Winter Climbing Record

Details

Date : 25/02/2020

Grade : II

Grade : 2

Style : Equals

Type : Snow & Ice Climbing

Weather : Heavy snow - good visibility

Wind : Moderate wind

Camping Type : Valley camp

Nights Camping : 3

Crag : Stob Coire nan Lochan

Climb : Dorsal Arete

Flagged :

Description

For this second attempt we had occasional clear skies and lower winds but a LOT of snow. We were careful getting up onto the route due to a heavily loaded Gulley. Even though the avalanche forecast was moderate we decided to stay as far away from the gully run outs as possible. The route was plastered in hard ice and banked out with good snow. We started well and decided not to pitch it but to solo it. Once across the short sharp exposed ridge the route got steeper. We stayed off the very icy rock and continued front pointing until approaching the chimney near the top. We set up a good belay stance and Justin led out 20m until a good block just below the chimney for the second belay. I crossed to him and led through, up into the chimney and onto the top. One last belay to bring Justin up and an enjoyable walk out having had 4 great days in Glencoe. After a good 8 hour day we enjoyed the drive back to Bristol.

Area : Glen Coe, Ardgour and Loch Etive to Appin (winter)

Glen Coe gives a wealth of winter climbing opportunities of all grades and styles, something indeed for everyone. The cliffs are also, in the main, easily accessible which means they can become very popular. This area also includes the winter climbs on the mountains south of Glen Coe in Glen Etive, and on hills more southerly still but north of the A85 Oban road (notably Ben Cruachan). Also included are the hills of Appin and Ballachuilish, the dry tooling of Ballachuilish bridge, and the winter climbs in Ardgour (notably Garbh Bheinn).

Location

Marker
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