What a fantastic climb, a number of different techniques utilised. Single roped up, lots of smearing at the start and rocking over on tiny footholds. Utilised a lot of full crimps to close off fingers which helped incrementally. Used a side pull to give me enough tension to put gear in before pulling hard to get onto the ledge. From here extended two pieces of gear to go into the chimney. Used chicken wing (and my bum) to wedge myself in and crimps to the left, placing gear higher up as I didn’t have the right fit. When looking at the chimney I was able to ascend it quickly pulling hard to move up and over the small overhang. Set up a easy anchor and used guide mode to get the others up.
Area :Cornwall Coast And Hills
All the way from the border with Devon to Land's End.
What a fantastic climb, a number of different techniques utilised. Single roped up, lots of smearing at the start and rocking over on tiny footholds. Utilised a lot of full crimps to close off fingers which helped incrementally. Used a side pull to give me enough tension to put gear in before pulling hard to get onto the ledge. From here extended two pieces of gear to go into the chimney. Used chicken wing (and my bum) to wedge myself in and crimps to the left, placing gear higher up as I didn’t have the right fit. When looking at the chimney I was able to ascend it quickly pulling hard to move up and over the small overhang. Set up a easy anchor and used guide mode to get the others up.
