Locryn Williams - 184008

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Details

Date : 01/07/2022

Grade : V-Severe

Grade : 4C

Style : Lead Climb

Type : Single Pitch

Weather : Partially Cloudy

Wind : Gentle Breeze

Crag : Zennor Cliff

Climb : The Royal Forester

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Description

A fantastic climb post work. Tried this same climb a few years ago and couldn't work out how to climb the crux move with the lay back. Using twin ropes to practice rope management and increase safety the first few metres are beautiful climbing on the killa slate. Nearing the overhang I double stacked on alpine draws as the placements were dodgy. Stepped up with my right foot on a smear which popped, still had good feet and hands so didnt fall, down climbed to rethink before utilising the same holds, edging a tiny ledge with the right foot and smearing my left on a tiny in dent in the rock which allowed me to reach high, bringing my right and left foot up high to carry on up. FOllowing the cracks I alternated clipping ropes. Slowly began to run out of the right size of gear before pulling over the top. A quick set up here with 2 cams and 1 nut equalised on a 240cm sling. I was out the system on my PAS and I put both ropes onto guide mode.
WWW - Best climbing I have done for a long time. Zero friction in ropes meant I had extended the gear well and all placements held. Mindset was good and climbing felt amazing.
EBI - Took me a couple of minutes to orientate the belay plate to guide mode and then by the time I had done that the rope was twisted just below me. This can be fixed simply by taking time and having more experience with twin ropes.

Area : Cornwall Coast And Hills

All the way from the border with Devon to Land's End.

Location

Marker
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