Mount Lefroy 3423m.
2-night visit to the Abbott Pass Hut with Marion, led by Guide Mike Stuart of Canadian Alpine Guides.
Strenuous climb from Lake O'Hara with heavy packs on new snow covering slippy scree. I reached hut feeling close to exhaustion, straight to bed with headache. Up Saturday morning 4.45 for an attempt on Mount Victoria. Courageous leading by Mike in slabby snow, covering ledges and loose rock steps, eventually thought better of it and we turned tail to be back at hut around 10am, after several lowers - no gear for safe abseiling. As ever Mike was determined that we get a summit, and plans were made for Lefroy next morning. Up again 4.30 for 5.30 start. Traversed initial "rock mound", then Mike did an avalanche test pit before announcing we were ok to continue. Two full run-outs by Mike without belay from us. He then tried the middle gully, not happy, came back down. Traversed further left to next gully, with an ice-screw runner and me as belayer, pronounced it would go. Followed Mike up this and on to summit ridge, short arete led to summit. 6 x 50m lowers on the descent, I secured each stance with ice screws. Then able to face out and walk back to the hut. Relaxing evening. Poor weather next morning - waited until 11am before leaving - just made the 2.30 bus at car park.
