MIKE WOOD - 488361

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Winter Climbing Record

Details

Date : 26/01/2023

Grade : I

Grade : 1

Style : Solo

Type : Snow & Ice Climbing

Weather : Clear - sunny - good visibility

Wind : Gentle breeze

Camping Type : N/A

Nights Camping : 0

Crag : Stob Ban

Climb : South Gully

Flagged :

Description

ROUTE: Followed a route recommended in "Scotland's Winter Mountains with one axe" by Garry Smith. From the Lower Falls Car Park, up the path to NN 155660, then across the burn to the approach slopes. I returned via the path to the col to the east of the summit.
MEMBERS OF PARTY: Solo
CONDITIONS: A brief ridge of High pressure gave calm conditions with some sunshine later. The snow was rather soft at the base of the route with much avalanche debris after a recent thaw, but improved on the ascent.
DURATION: 6 and a half hours car to car. Started around 8.15 am. 13.25km and 979m ascent
SKILLS PRACTISED: Planning: I had watched the MWIS and SAIS forecasts closely for a week or so following a big fall of snow. The High Pressure coincided with a period of stabilising of the snow pack - the Avalanche Hazard for Lochaber had fallen to Low by 23rd. Snow climbing with axe and crampons: I brought two axes and although generally not needed, I was very glad of them on the unexpectedly steep exit below the cornice, which had partially collapsed leaving a short headwall. Navigation: I navigated to the recommended grid reference using the map only, (this was straightforward as the location coincides with a stream crossing) then double-checked with OS Locate. Dynamic Risk Assessment: In general I was very alert and conscious of risks throughout - as I always am on solo trips in winter.
MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT: A beautifully tranquil day in the Glen, with mist before dawn. The Nevis Landscape Partnership have been doing sterling work in recent years and I used the new car park (and toilets!) for the first time. I passed through their fenced woodland restoration area on the path up the coire, noting also some new planting and nesting boxes. The landscape was stunning today with the colours of the deer grass, mat grass and moor grass particularly vibrant in contrast to the snow pack and the quartzite cliffs. I saw just one bird, a raven which circled above me croaking, as I geared up.
KEY LEARNING POINTS/CONTRIBUTION TO EXPERIENCE: A memorable day! Another nugget of winter self-reliance and valuable practise in safe stress-free solo climbing. The soft snow had required more effort than I expected and I was happy to choose plan B, deciding not to descend via the steeper and more complex North ridge.

Area : The Mamores

The Mamores provide some extremely fine winter mountaineering ridge scrambles and also some classic and popular climbs on Stob Bhan. Also included are the rarely formed Steall Falls in Glen Nevis.

Location

Marker
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