WQMD Stob Coire nan Lochan
Saturday 18th February 2023.
1 • Ascent of a significant mountain is included in the day;
Yes - Stob Coire nan Lochan at 1115m.
The planned route was a circular route via Coire nan Lochan returning through the Lost Valley taking in Stob Coire nan Lochan and Bidean nan Bian.
Based upon a speed of 3kph this should take 5 1/2 hours plus an additional 60 to 90 mins for the ascent of broad Gully, the ascent to Bidean nan Bian and descent of the snow face of Bealach Dearg. However, to ascend to the base of Broad Gully it took approx. 4 hours and it was clear to me plans needed to change. My client was a slow walker although his fitness was reasonable which is why I continued to the base of Broad Gully before making a final decision. Broad Gully was well within my clients skill set as he’d ascended many gullies in the past
The snow line started on the ascent at the end of Coire nan Lochan at approx. 650m. Cloud coverage came in as we ascended to the plateau with 3 small Lochs and some easy OS navigation was required to take a bearing to the base of Broad Gully.
We ascended Broad Gully carefully and soon reached the top, I then guided our way to the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan. We still had day light although I knew we would be descending in the dark in the next couple of hours. So I decided that our plans needed changing to ensure we had an easy descent. And that route was to go back through Coire nan Lochan and leave the full route for another day.
We descended a scramble ridge around the corie - which was mixed rock and snow. We were soon descending to the plateau under Stob Coire nan Lochan and back to the Lochs. From here we had a steep section to descend back to Coire Nan Lochan. As we descended the path back through the valley. It went dark, however this was easy navigation and we were soon back at the car. The whole journey took 9 hours, a lot longer than my originally plan - lots of lessons were learnt from this experience.
2 • Individual takes part in the planning and leadership;
Yes, I was leading and guiding a client as part of a few planned days trip to Scotland - in Glencoe and Ben Nevis - Fort William being our base for the trip.
Prior to the event - I supplied a kit list was to my client although he had prior experience of mountaineering, the use of crampons and ice axes, and climbing snow gullies. He just required someone to guide him on this route and make the decisions.
Planning Phase.
I had also kept an eye on the MWIS and SAIS reports and weather forecasts for the areas of Glencoe and Lochaber to know the snowpack history and what the conditions would be like that we would encounter. I also checked the observed conditions which really helped in my planning. And to check various sites through Facebook - although with some caution is taken with these sites - they need to tie in with the SAIS reports.
Journey Phase.
Throughout the journey I used an OS-Map which included escape routes.
I was looking at the snow conditions and comparing to those forecasted - and asking myself if they fit in. I was also looking at the altitude, aspects and angle of the slope. I was also able to look for any avalanche activity. I was also ask a few people descending how the conditions were further up giving me a good amount of detail and a picture of the conditions.
3 • Navigation skills are required;
Yes - Navigation was straightforward although route decisions were essential to remain safe. Cloud dropped into the valley as we crossed the plateau and some compass bearings were taken to find the base of Broad Gully. Visibility was down to probably 100 to 150 metres..
4 • knowledge is increased and skills practised;
Lessons Learnt:
Be flexible with planning routes. As we journeyed I knew we were ascending too slowly and I tried a few times to quicken the pace, and realised quite soon that plans would need to change.
Start routes earlier to have more daylight..! Say no more!!
Cramponing and Ice axe use.
Grade 1 steep snow/ice scent up Broad Gully, steep ground ascent. Plenty of kicking in, breaking trail.
In the planning phase using the SAIS website I found very valuable.
Taking in Chest Coils with the rope, for easy access, if required, during the Gully ascent - plus sling and crabs to hand.
Understanding Complex and Easy Terrain.
5 • attention is paid to safety;
Checked SAIS and observed conditions and the weather forecast before heading out…
MWIS weather report. And Face Book ground conditions. Also checked Winter Climbing Forecast (app).
Confidence rope / sling and a couple of crabs were carried.
Climbing helmets were worn during the Gully ascent.
Dynamic risk assessments with BAA throughout our journey to help me with my journeying decisions.
6 • adverse weather and underfoot conditions may be encountered;
Yes, Neve / Ice at higher levels. Snow throughout the higher levels and plenty of snow in the Coires.
Visibility was sometimes hampered with the cloud drop. The wind was coming from the South so we were on the Lea side.
7 • Five hours or more journey time;
Yes, the journey took 9 hours.
—
Area :
Glencoe South (Loch Linnhe To Loch Etive)
The southern side of Glen Coe includes some very well-known mountains and can be split into two groups; the ones you can see from the A82 and the ones you can’t. Included in the former group is Buachaille Etive Mor, Buachaille Etive Beag, the Three Sisters and the Ballachulish Horseshoe, and in the latter, three Munros between Glen Creran and Glen Etive (Sgor na h-Ulaidh, Beinn Fhionnlaidh and Beinn Sgulaird). With huge amounts of climbing and walking in summer and winter, this area is also home to a large cairn built for Queen Victoria, or so the story goes. Includes all major peaks above 600m.
