Simply the finest crag on grit with well over 1000 routes of all grades and styles. The most popular of climbing areas in the UK with a huge number of classic routes. We have split the area into the same divisions as used for UKC logbooks, namely Stanage Popular, Stanage Plantation and Stanage North. Bouldering activities should be entered into the 'Outdoor Bouldering' section of DLOG. Routes on other gritstone crags, such as Burbage North, should be added to the relevant Area as noted in the Area titles.
Learn to lead trad day with Rob and Louise. Rob and Louise recently attended learn to lead sport so there was an element of transferable skills. We started the day by revisiting technique and movement on gritstone, specifically hips in (CoG), hips side to side (WT), techniques for crack (hand and fist jams), considerations for topping out and corners/chimneys. Louise in particular is quite nervous. We then moved to looking at gear placements and rating systems. Being scientific in their thinking both got this quite quickly so moved on to consideration for extension of gear. As they have both had their lead belaying checked for sport and previously indoors we then moved onto ghost roping with me following to them check gear. I then went to rig a route but annoyingly the crag was considerably busier so this meant my original route choice was gone. I had also reduced my rack based on a prior night assessment of what gear they have but this left me short of a set of nuts for rigging. Noted. With the on-ground rating quickly established that our ratings were consistent but both tended to underrate their gear, we moved to ghost roping and I then followed to check and discuss gear. Louise found the climbing challenging as chimney were less familiar and vertical in places. With this complete and confidence again that their assessment was correct we moved to a ghost rope lead with clipping gear and bounce testing gear to gain confidence in placement as well as consideration for ledges and other dangers. Louise again struggled more on lead but was learning the route and also bounce testing and the lack of drama settled nerves. We then looked at building anchors on the ground and considerations for IDEAL. Louise was showing fatigue at this point so we called it a day.
