Ben Morgan-Gray - 465795

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Trad Climbing Record

Details

Date : 20/08/2023

Grade : Diff

Grade : n/a

Style : Instructor / Supervisor

Type : Single Pitch

Weather : Clear / Sunny

Wind : Gentle Breeze

Crag : Stanage Popular

Climb : Capstone Chimney

Flagged :

Description

Day 2 of learn to lead with Rob and Louise. A long and produtive day prior allowed us to look at lead early in the day. Before hand louise wnat to go through building personal anchors again for more practice so we did this at the base of the crag. i reduced my level of input unless needed or asked to build self-reliance. Rob then went for his first lead and I set up a self-line to check gear as he went. Despite ghost roping routes prior, but as expected, he was more nervous on lead and placed sufficient gear to protect his climb. When he go to the top, Louise walked around to look at anchor building in practice. This was a useful experience as they saw first hand just many balanced blocks there were and how it affects anchor building. Louise then went down to 2nd the route but found it quite hard. The wind and 3d style of climbing meant they both struggled with how to get up the route often getting too far into the face of the climb and missing feet. Louise is especially nervous and this didn't hep her. Unsuprisingly she decided not to lead the route and I reasured her that this as learn to lead, not thou shalt lead! I then revieweed what they wanted to do next to gauge mood and energy. We decided to build on technical knowlege with setting up a self abeseil to collect gear. We did this on the ground, I did a demo walk through and then Louise had a good setting up and completing an abseil. After this Rob was keen to lead another route, but wanted me to climb the first section and place gear. I asked him why and he was concerned about the lack of holds on the lower section and when i quizzed him on this it was because he looked at a distance. I suggested we get up close and look at how to build the feet on this section whilst maintaining the offer to lead it. Rob wen through the sequence, where to place gear and then was happy to lead it. Rob then lead the route and when he was near the top I walked up to inspect his anchor before going back down to discuss with Lousie who wasn't sure if she wanted to second. She decided to go for it and whilst she was a little rattled at the top she suprised herself at 2nding the route. We had a breif chat about building experience on Gritstone as a cornerstone to feeling better climbing it and that this was a good goal prior to leading. We then headed back downt the crag so Rob could undertake a persnonal abseil build before walking off.
A really useful day requiring a bit more of a free form rather than set peice approach and looking at each individuals needs beyond the scope of skills.

Area : Peak District Grit: Stanage Edge

Simply the finest crag on grit with well over 1000 routes of all grades and styles. The most popular of climbing areas in the UK with a huge number of classic routes. We have split the area into the same divisions as used for UKC logbooks, namely Stanage Popular, Stanage Plantation and Stanage North. Bouldering activities should be entered into the 'Outdoor Bouldering' section of DLOG. Routes on other gritstone crags, such as Burbage North, should be added to the relevant Area as noted in the Area titles.

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