I finally plucked up the courage to go up and get close to the mighty north face of ben nevis. For the first time, I decided along with my good friend John Walker, and attempt tower ridge.
The day was perfect, clear skies, minus 2 at the car park, and minimal wind.
Left the car at 0600, and was at the cic hut for 0730. A little faffing and kitted up, we ascended the east gully to the base of the climb.
it was good hard snow, stepped out which made for easy yet calf burning progress to the start of the route proper.
The first chimney was ice free, so we pitched it with john leading. crampons on rock. after that, we moved together across some pretty delicate and narrow snow aretes until we traversed the right side leading up to the small tower. the snow and ice was not in the best condition here, slipping under our feet, a little unnerving.
We placed runners as we moved here just for a bit of added protection.
At the base of the great tower, John led the eastern traverse, along less that enticing snow, yet it was solid enough not to give us any trouble. I belayed him up to the top of the tower, underneath a waterfall of melting ice.
A few tough moves up saw me go straight past John, and secure myself just before tower gap, from where John again led across a very precarious slushy arête...of which we rode a cheval style, as it wasn`t quite nice enough to walk on!
The drop in the gap was my most nervous moment, and actually after three false moves to drop myself in, I got John to flick the rope over the top of the boulder so he could almost lower me, he didn`t but I felt much happier like that. I then attached myself to the rather new looking tat with a cows tail, untied from the rope and we pulled it back through so I could tie back in. Job done.
The last airy move out of the gap was crampons on rock, followed by some slushiness leading up to the summit, with a little steep move over the top.
14 hours car to car, 8 hours for the climb itself.
I will stop doubting my climbing abilities now!
Area :
Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg
Ben Nevis is certainly the biggest and most famous winter climbing ground in Scotland, with something for everyone from the debutante to the most experienced and skilled. The almost alpine grandeur of the north face can, in a good winter, transform into a world where climbable snow-ice forms at almost every angle. It provides climbs suitable for any stage of the winter, from early season snowed-up rock climbs to late season ice wall specials. Also included here are the small number of winter climbing opportunities on the neighbouring Carn Mor Dearg.
