Itinerary
9AM Meet at café meeting point
9.05AM Introductions and greetings
9.15AM 1 hour theory and peer discussion on performance trad coaching
10.15AM Head to crag suitable for group abilities and targets for the day
11AM Everyone warm up incl bouldering and coaching each other specifically targeted towards
athletic performance
12PM Discuss next steps towards coaching a client for a performance trad climb
12:30PM Get people on performance trad routes of their choice (if they choose to do so) with an idea
of how to facilitate it and keep it safe and progressional from an instructing perspective.
3:00PM Head back to central meeting point for debrief and thanks
Subjects
Morning discussion topics
Classify performance trad coaching incl. definition, grades, how does it look, TTPP
What pre reqs do we expect from our clients? How to ensure this?
What is expected of us as instructors? Prior knowledge, prior experience??????
How long would a course of this nature take?
What can hinder climbing performance? Sleep, alcohol, caffeine, nerves, stress, lack of recovery from
other activities, fear of…
Reading materials
At the crag
Warming up. How to make this specific to a performance trad climb
What steps might you take before a lead takes place? eg. abseil pre inspection, headpointing, climb
a neighbouring route, what period in a climbing session would they be at their best to perform
How to judge if they’re ready?
Route selection
Decision making to make it safe eg. pre-placed gear,
Where to position ourselves as leaders
How can we be of help when they’re on route?
How can we ensure that they go away after the course continue to progress safely
Debrief
Recap key points made through day
What is the realities of these courses running regularly
How confident would ‘you’ be running such a course?
Any last questions?