Robin Shaw - 108161

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Trad Climbing Record

Details

Date : 15/10/2005

Grade : H-V-Diff

Grade : 4A

Style : Alternate Lead

Type : Multi Pitch

Weather : Partially Cloudy

Wind : Moderate Wind

Crag : Tryfan

Climb : Grooved Arete

Flagged :

Description

230m, 8 pitches.
One of the classics.
Not the best of weather to start with but then again what do you expect for October.
Held a short fall due to slip on wet rock on rib leading up to Knights Haven. Weather improved. A fine day out not too crowded. The route is now exceptionally polished but still a classic.

One of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the UK. Start beneath the well-worn corner with the letters 'GA' scratched on the rock. 1) 30m. Climb the corner for 12m, make a move rightwards and then trend left up the slab above to gain a rib leading to a large spike belay. 2) 30m. Step left and follow the prominent rib to a good stance below a corner with a capping roof. 3) 50m. Climb the corner on the right-hand side, passing the awkward capping roof on the right side. Continue more easily leftwards and scramble up to a path. 4) 15m. Walk rightwards along the path to belay at the well-used rocky rib. 5) 38m. Start on the right of the rib and climb up and leftwards to gain the groove above. Follow this until a step left gains a steeper continuation-groove. Climb this until a move leftwards gains a good ledge, block belay well back. 6) 18m. The infamous 'Knight's Move' pitch. How's your chess? Climb the crack behind the belay to reach the slab above. Exit this slab in the top right corner, step round the arete to find a comfortable stance. 7) 20m. Romp up the corner above the belay to reach a good stance. 8) 30m. Head right and climb the steep rock to an ever easing finish. An escape rightwards is easy if the weather is bad or darkness is closing in.

Area : Cwm Idwal, Glyderau, Tryfan and Gallt yr Ogof

Includes crags South of the A5 through the Ogwen Valley. Popular crags and routes include: Idwal Slabs (Tennis Shoe HS 4b), Tryfan Bach (Little Tryfan Arete Mod), East Face Of Tryfan (Grooved Arete HVD). Please note that Carreg Mianog and Amphitheatre Buttress (Craig yr Ysfa) are within the 'Carneddau' area.

Location

Marker
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