
5a-5a-4c. A day off, a day climbing with Rusty Bale (MIC friend). Started at approx 11am, low tide was 1145, we finished about 1345.
It was cold and windy, so we didn`t bother going all the way to sea level, even though we could have.
We started on the brown shelf. I led the crux 5a pitch from there to the Wen hanging belay. Rich took the next 4c lead to the Concrete Chimney belay. I then led the final (and best) 4c traverse pitch across the top of the zawn.
Temperature ranged from freezing wind (using RB`s down jacket for warmth) to hot sunshine once we reached the final half of the last pitch! A superb day, though!
Area :
Gogarth and Anglesey (Holyhead Mountain)
Mostly sea-cliff climbing and mostly quartzite with a few very minor outlying shale outcrops and quarries. The main cliffs and Castell Helen are multipitch, tidal and serious of access and egress. The routes are awesome. Do them you must, with respect due for seasonal restrictions, nesting birds and the seriousness of the situations. If conditions are not suitable for the main cliff there are some very pleasant climbs on Holyhead Mountain. Some lovely little gems can be found further afield at, for instance, Rhoscolyn and Smurf Zawn.