Dave Willcox - 178582

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Indoor Climbing Record

Details

Date : 01/06/2018

Duration : 1-2 hours

Grade :

Grade : f5b

Style : Coaching Session

Type : Top Roping

Routes : 4

Flagged :

Description

Today`s session was myself and friend Sophie.
We wanted to get some easy climbs done, without too much effort as Sophie had a big golf tournament the following day.
Just a small bit of coaching today - Sophie went up one of the curvy walls in slow time, with me giving direction on different ways to complete some of the moves - the aim was for Sophie to just use the holds, and not the features (which was allowed on the grade card). She did well, but needed some convincing to get to the last hold which was a bit of a push.
Then we turned our attention to a black coloured 5b climb in one of the corners. Sophie had previously been unsuccessful with this climb and so wanted to try it. I climbed it first, noting the crux was where she had become stuck last time - it was just two holds away from the top, but the move needed some work on the hands - a couple of difficult pinches to complete.
I came down and explained to Sophie how I had managed it, hoping she would be able to `see what I mean` when she got there.
Indeed she did manage to get to the crux, but the pinch holds were very fatiguing and by the time she tried to pass them she was too weak / tired to complete the move. I asked her to come down slightly to a stable position where she could plan her moves, but she really wanted to come down.
On arrival at the ground I took a stern approach with her and told her to get back up on the wall, and use her body position more to stay stable whilst getting past the crux. Although she was tired and wanted to comeback down at the crux, this time I held her on the rope to give her a break. She did manage the crux and made it to the top by using her right foot on an opposing wall, however we both saw this as a successful climb as she got past a tough area with new knowledge. This can now be improved on as psychologically she has now made it to the top, and how she gets there now can be `tweaked`.

Area : The Warehouse Climbing Centre

Location

Marker
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