MIKE WOOD - 488361

logs 161

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Winter Climbing Record

Details

Date : 20/03/2020

Grade : II

Grade : 2

Style : Lead Climb

Type : Snow & Ice Climbing

Weather : Clear - sunny - good visibility

Wind : No wind

Camping Type : N/A

Nights Camping : 0

Crag : Beinn Eighe

Climb : Fuselage Gully

Flagged :

Description

Absolutely stellar day. Leading with my wife Marion seconding. Hard overnight frost (c.-4 in glens) gave way to perfect calm day with (warm!) sunshine. Moved together on alpine coils with 2m separation up to fork, then pitched to top, 4 pitches. Gully very well banked out, comparing with other photos on UKC Logbook page. Straightforward snow climbing, with bucket seat/body belays, occasionally got better rock belays using slings and Friends on the gully walls where possible. Short section below propeller was the crux, a bit steeper, protected with a perfect ice screw as a runner, and another on the propeller itself. Descended via main ridge and Coire nan Laoigh, (had to descend over a small cornice, downclimbed facing in with two axes without roping up). Long day out, 11 hours total car to car.

Area : Northern Highlands South (winter)

Extending from Torridon in the north to Knoydart in the south, and including Glen Shiel, Glen Carron and Applecross, Northern Highlands South includes many brilliant winter climbs of all grades and styles. The quartzite cliffs of Beinn Eighe and the corries of Bheinn Bhan have become forcing grounds for modern mixed climbing, while Liathach nearby offers many fine, steep, traditional ice climbs. New winter climbing possibilities are being discovered on the mountains throughout this area on an annual basis.

Map

MarkerMarker
Leaflet Tiles © Esri — Esri, DeLorme, NAVTEQ, TomTom, Intermap, iPC, USGS, FAO, NPS, NRCAN, GeoBase, Kadaster NL, Ordnance Survey, Esri Japan, METI, Esri China (Hong Kong), and the GIS User Community
Distance : 14.5 km Ascent : 1079.2 m Descent : -1078.2 m

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