First climb back from tearing AC in shoulder. Heard Matt say this was a nice climb so thought we’d check it out. Abbed in on equalised gear, one retrievable and one static.
Start is a very nice crack climb using small nuts and a couple of small cans to move upwards of crack.
Feet placements were solid mix of edging and point.
Took me a while to figure out the crux move using a ‘confidence’ nut which would have taken a down fall but wouldn’t have stayed in moving past it.
Used small left hand crack to lay back and walk my feet up the right hand crack giving me enough distance to reach the flake. Moved feet up and carried on. In retrospect I really needed to extend the draw to decrease the friction in the system due to the traversing nature to slabby cracks.
Gear was difficult here with flaying cracks but used a hex and cans as shuffled my way up to slab and an easy finish.
Used the rope to make an anchor extending it backwards on 3 pieces of gear and a closer cam. Used gudiemode to bring up Pete.
Good climb overall!
Area :
Cornwall Coast And Hills
All the way from the border with Devon to Land's End.
