
1:1 bouldering session with GB paraclimber Luke Jamieson.
At the outset of the session he mentioned he was struggling with a move when moving off of his weaker right hand when pressing down or in gaston. He demonstrated to me a boulder he was working on and one he had done. I then used the completed boulder problem and made a rule about how to use one of the holds to force the gaston position he mentioned. After falling on that move with that rule I utilised video feedback to show him and draw out of him how he can improve that movement with prompts about hips and tension after the move is completed not just during. He also mentioned that he has a mental image of pushing his shoulders in to the ground to create more tension and move past the target hold to bring it closer to his centre line and in more control. This lead to a few goes at the move in isolation, eventually making a successful attempt from the start. He then applied this to his project boulders with good success and greater confidence.
Area :
The Climbing Hangar Sheffield
Unit A & B, 15 Sutherland St, Sheffield S4 7WG