First coaching session back with Richard Slocock, GB Paraclimber.
Firstly we chatted about the cancelled comps this year and what Richards goals were going to be in climbing without the comps to prep for. He expressed a desire to climb f7a and F7a outside. Therefore we stuck to my original plan and focussed on building confidence in feet again after a few months training on a home board. Did lots of slab climbing, gradually taking away hands to emphasise good body positions which worked well.
Then I wanted to put Rich on a steeper route to look at how his ability to handle cutting loose has improved since spending time on the home board, whereas he used to stiffen up and hold the cut loose with a straight body, the board climbing has forced him to tuck his feet in and reduce his body lever so he doesn't dab. We then combined the 2 techniques from the slab climing and the overhangs and briefly covered galloping feet to get back to the wall as soon as possible and put feet on a hold quickly which Richard took on and did well very quickly.
